Domaine Désiré Petit, Trousseau Rouge ‘Les Grandes Gardes’ Arbois

This is made from the Jura's own grape variety, Trousseau, only a small amount of which is still grown in its native region It's a variety that sometimes struggles to ripen sufficiently so yields have to be kept low - think of it as a country cousin to Pinot Noir. It's fermented in large ancient oak barrels which add character, but without imparting excessivley dominant oak flavours. Here it displays perfectly much of its true varietal personality, characteristically perfumed and fragrant it has an enticing soft and honeyed fruit feel which envelops the bright red cherry core. There's a slight gamey quality too which sits well alongside the bright acidity and long, tasty finish.

While Domaine Désiré Petit began quite modestly in 1932 with just 1.5 hectares of vines on the Côte de Feule if you fast forward to today, although not exactly a large-scale operation, the estate has grown to nearly 30 hectares, under the careful stewardship of Damien and Anne-Laure Petit, the third generation at the helm. Despite their size, they offer an impressive array of wines, from Jura classics like Vin Jaune and Vin de Paille to more contemporary Chardonnays. Their Crémant de Jura, rich and floral, is a particular standout. It's a good mix of tradition and modernity, all from a charming family estate in the Jura region of eastern France.